Jenny On The Sunblock

Get shook: sorting out sun protection

Summer is upon us, and yes, we all know we should apply sunblock daily and reapply every 2 hours, especially if we are outside enjoying our long summer days. However, there are many, surprising facts about sunscreen that I regularly discuss with my patients that leave them absolutely #shook. And before you dismiss this article and classify it as a complete snooze fest, keep reading! I bet you will be surprised at what you will learn, and then use to protect you, AND your family!

UVA vs. UVB

So, let’s quickly outline WHAT we are protecting from when we apply topical sun protection. UVA and UVB are two types of harmful ultraviolet rays emitted from the sun that permeate through the ozone layer to our skin. Approximately 95% of these rays are UVA rays, which penetrate deep into our skin, and are responsible for not only the formation of skin cancers, but also the premature aging and wrinkling of the skin that we associate with prolonged sun exposure. UVB rays, on the other hand, do not penetrate as deeply into our skin, but still contribute to skin cancers and are the major causative agent of sunburns.

SUNSCREEN vs. SUNBLOCK

Is there even a difference between sunscreen and sunblock? Don’t they mean the same thing? If you ask most people, they would not even think twice about using these terms interchangeably. However, you, my dear friend—with your new, mastery of dermatological technicalities—will now be able to be THAT person (aka me, in any and all situations in life) and correct those in your life who may be in need of your newly acquired SPF smarts.

Sun protection comes in many forms –creams, lotions, oils, sprays and more. Regardless of the application formula, there is a very important distinction that should be made—first and foremost—when considering a sun protector: is this a physical or a chemical blocker? Keep reading to learn why this is important and how to navigate the ingredients label of these products to quickly choose the best and safest option for you and your family.

All sun protection products fall into one of these two categories: a physical/mineral protectant or a chemical protectant. Most people are completely unaware that the latter option can have potentially harmful health effects on not only the person wearing the sunscreen, but also to marine life and coral reef ecosystems!

A chemical SunSCREEN refers to any and/or all (or any combination of) the following ingredients: oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate. Once on the skin, these chemicals act as a sponge and ABSORB the UV rays, (and then through a chemical reaction) turns the rays into heat, and then releases that heat through the skin. Thus, the term ‘sunSCREEN’ is rather fitting to this approach – as chemical protectants will “screen” the harmful rays and then convert them to non-damaging heat waves. Traditionally, chemical sunscreens are usually applied with ease—with sheer and highly ‘blendable’ applications—so why would anyone even consider a mineral sunblock?

Before the defense rests, let us consider the alternative: mineral sunblock. SunBLOCK technically refers to a physical, or mineral-based, sun protection because it utilizes minerals that, once applied, will sit on the surface of our skin and act as a shield and physically BLOCK harmful UV rays. Ingredients like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are listed as the active ingredients in this type of sunblock and have been cited and affirmed by the FDA as safe.

Prior to recent advancements in formulary technology, mineral sunblocks were thicker and more difficult to apply evenly/spread. However, as many of my patients can attest – mineral sunblock applications (particularly with the products we carry and recommend here at Nowak Aesthetics!) can be an absolute joy (and safe!) product to apply. One of my all-time favorite sun protectors is *product highlight(s) here*. It’s a creamy, slightly tinted – for literally the PERFECT amount of coverage/color correction sunblock that wears flawlessly under my makeup, or completely solo!

SPF SAFETY

Now that we know the difference between a physical or mineral (those two terms can be used interchangeably ) sunblock vs. a chemical sunscreen – let’s unpack the safety of these products. Safety is an important consideration, because we start applying these products to our sun-loving babies as young as 6 months old and continue throughout our entire life. We apply these products to our skin- the largest organ in our body – which is incredibly efficient at absorbing any and all topical ingredients, which then are metabolized and circulate systemically– potentially affecting multiple other organ systems and functions.

Did you know? Circulating chemical levels can be detectable in blood samples for WEEKS after application!

Most people think that if you can buy something off the shelves here in the United States, that it is automatically safe. Most people rely on governmental agencies and safety regulations to ensure that any potential harmful or toxic ingredient(s) and/or product would never even be an option to buy. And, unfortunately, most people would be wrong. Now, I do not want to incite pandemonium or unnecessary fear mongering, but I do want to educate my patients and encourage y’all to be informed consumers – yay for knowledge!

So, WHY are people rethinking their sun protection? Is this actually a big deal? Well, in the past 4-5 years, there have been major industry recalls and growing legislative efforts and regulations on sunscreens due to detection of carcinogens, hormone disruptors, and even toxic effects on our coral reefs. There are numerous studies, articles and data sets one can explore further to investigate these claims, so I will just highlight a few to demonstrate the science and data supporting the re-evaluation of this multi-million-dollar industry.

In 2018, Hawaii made history as the first legislation in the world to ban the sale and distribution of chemical sunscreens containing the oxybenzone and octinoxate. In coming years, the ban is anticipated to become more restrictive to include other chemicals after many studies demonstrated the toxic effects on reef health and marine life – to include genetic mutations and reef bleaching.

More recently, in multiple, independent laboratory studies, scientists found benzene—a cancer-causing agent also found in vehicle emissions and cigarette smoke—in 78 sun-care protectants in the United States. It should be noted that Benzene is NOT an ingredient intended to be in sunscreens, but rather a contaminant most likely introduced during the manufacturing process. There is debate about ‘how much is too much?’ and many speculate that the levels detected “would not be expected to cause adverse health consequences.” However, the amounts found in these products were enough for major industry leaders to recall several product lines last July.

Perhaps some of the most critical data has shown that oxybenzone can act as an endocrine disruptor and may increase the risk of breast cancer, endometriosis, and other pathologies related to hormone regulation. ‘Acting as an endocrine disrupter’ essentially means that a synthetic chemical compound can interact with our own endocrine system (which regulates our internal hormone production) – by mimicking, blocking, decreasing or increasing circulating hormone levels. This, obviously, can have a profound effect particularly on our developing little kiddos. In fact, in 2016, CDC researchers found that adolescent boys with higher oxybenzone measurements had significantly lower total testosterone levels. The mode of application of sunscreen must ALSO be considered as aerosolized sunscreens, which are easily and incidentally inhaled during application, can grant harmful particles direct access to our internal pulmonary system and even cause and/or exacerbate asthmatic symptomology.

There are countless more studies that demonstrate similar findings, however, researchers are still evaluating what the implications and long-term health effects that may arise from these findings. In fact, in regards to the publi8c safety concerns of these ingredients in sunscreen, the FDA has been quoted by saying:

[the] available literature … indicat[es] that oxybenzone is absorbed through the skin to a greater extent than previously understood and can lead to significant systemic exposure.… The significant systemic availability of oxybenzone … is a concern, among other reasons, because of questions raised in the published literature regarding the potential for endocrine activity.

WHAT NOW?

Firstly, don’t go cray-cray, sun protection is here to stay! This information is not intended to scare you, as it should still be considered preliminary until there are more definitive results and causative relationships supported by scientific data. Obviously, we need to continue to use sun protection in order to reduce the risk of skin cancer(s), photoaging and the degenerative effects of UV exposure on our skin. Just be mindful when purchasing your products . You can even download any number of apps on your phone to help you quickly access health and safety information on sunscreens and many more products!

And don’t forget, you can always seek insight from your trusted clinical team here at Nowak Aesthetics! We offer a wide spectrum of sun protection and can help you find the perfect fit for you.

FUN FACT: DECODING SPF

SPF = sun protection factor
SPF 30 protects against 97% of UV rays
SPF 50 protects against 98% of UV rays

Anything beyond SPF 50 makes very little difference in terms of risk of sun damage, and no sunscreens offer 100% protection from UV rays.